Having had an insight into riding with others last year, and the fun that can be, I invited the same group of folk to do a similar ride this year. Since some of this year’s riders didn’t go last year - and some from last year were going again - I decided to cover some of the same ground that would please those from last year and expose the newcomers to some nice twisty bits and unique scenery. I added routes that neither group had ridden which would also please the group; as far as I could tell.
I appreciate scenery, and the occasional stop to sniff a flower or two but I am not classified as a flower sniffing rider. The things that please me about motorcycling have to do with the sensations of riding and the pleasure of seeing what is around the next bend or over the next hill. I have difficulty stopping as there is so much to see and I suppose I want to fill my life with as much of what pleases me as I can before I cannot ride any more, and have to find some other passion. So, with that in mind I forewarned the group about how I like to ride, and laid out the trip itinerary. All readily agreed as I think they too like to ride as I do. What follows is a short reflection of the trip; I hope you enjoy the read.
My riding buddy of many years sent an e-mail the morning of the trip indicating he wasn’t feeling well and would not ride with us. His medical condition reinforces my desire to ride as much as I can now, and I very much miss his company. Another friend had a work thing assault him at the last moment; we share the same birthday and I missed his companionship and our birthday celebration during the ride. Rick is a good rider and it is fun to follow his lines and to try and keep up. Another of the group had to abort the ride as well. That meant that 4 of us departed the dealership where I work instead of 6. We would meet Jennifer at our first stop that night.
Day 1: The ride to Susanville California means a slog down I-5 through Portland and the state of Oregon. I really have grown to loathe freeway riding in Washington and Oregon. Iron Butt rides usually dictate using freeways and it makes sense for that type of activity, but to get anywhere from where I live one has to use a freeway, or be content to deal with Washington and Oregon gapers on the two lane roads. It means one gets nowhere very fast or one gets speeding tickets. At any rate we slog down the corridor which is pretty much straight and slow until Eugene, OR where the freeway begins to twist in an entertaining way. I’m needing to avoid speeding tickets so I barely do 5 over the posted limit and that makes the day very long.
Thankfully we divert off the freeway onto highway 89 which goes through Lassen volcanic park into Susanville. The temperatures have been in the mid 90s most of the day so we stop often to hydrate and to let the air get at wet butts; at least that’s my need. As we ride in this area I am recalling the ride that Bob and I did in April. The temperature was 14 degrees not 95 degrees. I almost prefer the cold. The GPS takes us to our motel and we get unloaded, set up in our rooms and meet Jen who had ridden through 105 degree air from San Francisco to meet us. Jen, Banks, and I chatted a while after dinner and then we split for our rooms and some needed rest. 660 miles today.
Bob’s LT with plenty reflective material - a good
thing!
Day 2: It is 0600 when we emerge for the day’s ride and
we are moving shortly afterward. There is a bit of a
slog down to Reno and around town to our breakfast and
fuel stop in Fallon, NV which is the entrance to
highway 50. The sunrise, however, made the ride
interesting for me. I love the soft colors brought on
by sunrise and always have a personal sense of
awakening.
The food in Fallon is good old fashioned American
cuisine. The banter gets around to slender Janet and
her ability to consume food. Someone wondered if she
could eat all that she ordered and I commented about
how she demolished a breakfast and a huge cinnamon roll
last year. I probably should have avoided that
disclosure as the teasing began and endured for the
trip. Banks noticed that candidate Obama had a brother
working in the restaurant and damned if the guy didn’t
resemble the man in one dimension, at least, but I
won’t cover the other ones.
Banks
- a very smooth rider who makes a GS
dance
We
slogged across highway 50 through Austin, NV and on to
Eureka where we stopped for fuel. Somewhere in this
area I motioned for the others to pass as it was time
to let folk go do their thing with the throttle hand if
they wanted. I didn’t need to lead and hold folk up. So
off the women riders went with Bob in tow. Just so we
are clear for those of you who ride with either Jen or
Janet - do not think you can do a male thing and dust
them off. Won’t happen. They ride well and ride hard
and they simply disappeared only to be seen again in
Ely, NV. They again took off for Cedar City, UT as they
had ridden this route last year and wanted to get on
with it. Bob and Banks followed at a distance and I
tailed behind at a slower pace as I got into flower
sniffing mode. It seems the group’s needs are being
met.
High Speed
Bob and Banks miss a turn and flashed my high beams at
them but they took off at a rapid pace. I figured they
would catch on if mr. GPS was functioning and decided
to wait for them at a fuel stop. Janet and Jen had
fueled up and were ready to go. “Want to ride along?”
Nope, I said. Will wait for the boys a while. They left
and I had the place to myself for a while. It was a
good choice. Laurie and I have been on a weight loss
campaign which, although working, had me a bit bound up
and the two day’s ride enhanced the situation. Well, I
had been into the Metamucil for a couple days to make
sure it wasn’t a permanent thing and it was at this
time, in this beautiful place, that it all came
together.
Feeling much lighter, and deciding Bob and Banks found
an alternate route, I departed. As evening drew closer
the shadows lengthened and the colors became more
distinct. I reflected on the day as I rode; a wonderful
sunrise, good riding, and now a cooler and colorful
evening all to myself.
On
the way I was startled by a large antelope running
across the road in front of me. I braked instinctively
and saw another to my right, sort of running along
beside me but at a distance. The antelope that ran in
front of me was on the left, looking to the other as if
to say, “Come on man, let’s go!”. The photos may be
hard to see but I included them anyway.
In time, with my butt on fire, I made the motel shortly
after the others had arrived. I slept well after a good
meal with the group.
Day 3: I planned this day to be a no ride day as a
break, and so the group could see Zion NP. We avoided
it last year and to be seen one should, so I have been
told, take the bus tour. Well, let me just say you need
to be on the bus that Dan drives, and plan your ride so
that a hard of hearing geezer woman is one of the
passengers. You will be unable to keep from laughing.
It is Dan’s fault :)
Tree
Weeping Wall - wasn’t weeping much this day
Janet
Jen
The
scenery is less than I had expected but to be real
honest Zion is a spectacular place. It simply is that
Zion is just one of many superb places in Utah and in
Zion you are IN the scenery and in the other spots you
are sort of outside it taking it all in. I prefer the
later. In any event it was a good rest day. Janet and
Jen rode out through the park’s East entrance and then
to the motel over highway 14.
The boys went in search of a sheepskin car seat cover
in a Wal-Mart near the motel. Both Bob and I have the
beginnings of monkey butt and need relief. Anti Monkey
Butt powder is OK stuff, and LD Comfort tights help to
wick moisture away from your behind. The two in
combination work well, but the vinyl saddle covering
does not let the wicked moisture evaporate so in time
you sit in hot, wet garments and then your butt begins
to decay and fall off in painful chunks. We figured to
cut a car seat into two halves and at least minimize
the moisture retention and maybe add a little padding.
Bummer; no suitable seat cover to be had. Oh, well we
will try as we ride. Day 3 ends with good sleep.
Day 4: Jen and Janet leave the group today heading
west. Jen to return to work and Janet to see friends
near Lake Tahoe. The boys are headed for Durango, CO.
Marty, Banks, Bob
A deer almost hit me on route 14 outside Cedar City,
UT. Spooked me as there was nothing I could have done
to avoid the impact. Fortunately the deer wanted to
live more than collide with a BMW K1200LT and darted in
another direction. I have to say that for the remainder
of the trip I was hyper vigilant, and frequently seeing
deer that were not there. Forest Rat psychosis. Ahrgh.
The route thereafter takes us through Page, AZ which
seems to have been built when the big dam was
constructed. We stopped at the dam’s visitor center and
had to pass through a whole airport style metal
detection scheme. No knives allowed, the whole thing.
I’m not sure how a terrorist could hurt the dam by
hurting the visitor’s center but maybe there is a way.
Regardless the dam is pretty impressive, and the
history about its construction is neat to read. An old
timer says it took 4 million cubic yards of concrete to
build it. He looks like he hand mixed every yard of it.
The Dam
We
do obtain a sheepskin seat cover in Page and cut it to
useable chunks in a Burger King. Ahh, that helps a
little. We buy dog biscuits for the dogs that lurk
around a gas station we stop at on the reservation
outside Page. Good scam. The dogs approach every
customer as they enter the store to buy something, and
the dog biscuits are handily available at the checkout
counter. The dogs then assume you have something to
feed them. I think in nature this is an example of a
symbiotic relationship. I like dogs and buy a couple
biscuits and break them up so all can have an equal
share.
Banks explaining
We dine at a Denny’s in Cortez, AZ and then enjoy one
of those leisurely rides into Durango. You know, a ride
where the temperature is just right, the scenery is
just right, the bike purrs, and your destination is
near. Another fine day.
Day 5: Today is an ambitious day. Durango to Jackson,
WY is near 650 miles which is easily managed but this
day is all two lane twisty and much of it at slower
speed. Regardless we take off a 0600 and head up
highway 550 for Grand Junction, CO and then on to Rock
Springs, WY. It is very cold, around 35 degrees, but
beautiful as the sun rises. We climb to almost 11,000
feet and stop at the top; Molas Pass. Banks remarks
that in his opinion Colorado has the most spectacular
scenery of any state in the lower 48. Today I agree
with him.
Banks and Bob
There
is a rest room here that we use. I speak to the young
woman detailed with latrine duty and wish her luck with
her chores. Those toilets had been used by uncivilized
people who could shit on the walls, the floors,
everywhere but down the tube. I felt bad for her and
wondered if the public ever figured out why they have
clean roadside toilets to use; then it dawned on
me-they don’t care. It is another example of the
decline in our civilization.
We head down to Oury, CO and pass through a layer of
fog which makes negotiating the tight turns a bit of a
challenge-it washes out your depth perception. In time
we break through to sunshine and the tight turns above
Oury and an old mine facility. Colorado is a fine place
to flower sniff, if you are inclined toward that. We
dine about 20 miles north and then head for the freeway
and our turn north heading for Vernal, UT. The freeway
bit of 10 miles is almost a disaster as people want to
hurt us. I guess the Californians in the tricked out
SUV didn’t know how to behave outside their asylum. We
stopped at a store to hydrate and watched a local
motorcycle officer repeatedly stop people who violated
a school zone speed limit. He would roll back and forth
getting motorists coming and going. Must have stopped 6
in the time we were there. So, when we took off we were
sure to behave and, as he rolled past, I waved-he took
a while to respond but eventually waved back. The kids
in the school yard were all lined up against the fence
watching the policeman do his thing. They waved as I
passed, and waving back to them I could only think they
looked like so many prison inmates let out of their
cell block for their exercise time.
The ride to Vernal is a nice twisty mountain road and
we enjoyed it. In fact we have had the roads mostly to
ourselves as traffic is minimal. I like that the gas
prices facilitate this. Banks pulls over part way along
the ride and declares this is the place where we put on
rain gear. The sky is black up ahead and the wind is
building. Just back into the ride and the rain
begins-it is moving across my face shield at a 45
degree angle where normally the rain would be blown
down vertically. A few moments later and the hail
starts and that stuff hurts. Lightening falls around us
and the thunder is well, thunderous. One lightening
strike must have been close as I could smell the
ionization and instead of a distinct lightening bolt I
only saw a green haze. Decent!
We decide to cancel our reservations in Jackson, WY. In
true motorcyclist tradition we stand in the rain in a
restaurant parking lot while Bob makes the call. It is
pouring rain, and even though Banks says: “Hey Bob, we
can do this inside” a couple of times, we all stand
around in the downpour while the call is consummated.
Afterward Bob and Banks encountered a strange person in
a gas station. I didn’t see this creature but TV
vampires seemed tame in contrast to what I was told-so
be very careful in Vernal, UT when getting gas.
I did mention to Banks that I thought we might ride out
of the rain-he laughed at me. It sure looked like we
should be building an ark rather than riding
motorcycles. About 30 miles north though and we did get
out of the rain into cold higher elevations, and that
interesting post rain storm environment where
everything smells fresh, and the sky has remnants of
rain cloud and bits of fog in the low lands. Very
interesting.
We turned north through Flaming Gorge and into a tight
twisty section. Unfortunately there is what appears to
be a police vehicle with two afraid to pass followers
behind. For a few miles I could take it but I got a
glimpse of the police vehicle’s license plate. He’s
from Wyoming, and we are still in Utah. One guy figures
it out too and passes the cop, then I do, and then Bob.
After that it is twist the throttle time. This is the
5th day of our ride and this section with wide sweepers
and open country to view turns out to be my release
point. Work has been brutal and I’ve needed this ride
to unwind. At this moment I feel the release and ride
in the way I’m accustomed to riding. I’m relaxed and
smooth on the bike and extraordinarily happy. The
sheepskin is working, I don’t hurt anywhere, I’m
finally right with the world. What makes it even better
is there is a Starbucks next to our motel. It has been
along challenging day and worth every mile.
Day 6: We get up early 0530 intending to leave at 0600.
It has been raining all night and it is still raining
and it is cold. We sort of grump around until we can’t
stand it any longer and take off in the dark and wet.
Of course we can’t see with fogged up face shields and
black top that absorbs our headlights, so we just
follow the car in front until the sun begins to rise. I
love mornings when I ride and this is another of those
that brings subtle colors, and awakens the senses. The
rain has stopped and we head for Jackson, WY. We enter
more fog and ride it for a while eventually coming into
sun along a twisty river road. Banks comments it is a
little like route 2 that descends into Leavenworth, WA.
I ride through town intending to take the boys to a
restaurant I know for breakfast. It has been replaced
and I begin to wonder how many other favorites in my
life have been replaced now that I have been on the
planet for a long time. We eat at another joint and the
waitress is inspiring with her banter-pulls us out of a
funk. Teton Pass is fun and we make for Arco, ID and
the ride north on 93 to Hamilton, MT. Banks leads as he
is a good rider and will enjoy the road.
I’m riding my big LT and work it as hard as I feel
comfortable on this road. We encounter other LT riders
headed south-the bike looks sort of sinister when you
meet it mid corner. Anyway, when we get to our motel I
notice most of my tread has gone and Banks tells me the
tire is mounted backwards. Sure enough-and this
probably explains why I hate these tires in the wet.
I’d get the big bike up to speed and it would begin to
handle weird. Dry pavement was no issue but the wet was
spooky. Now it all makes sense as the tread pattern
couldn’t evacuate water, it would create a hydroplaning
scenario at the right speed. Guess I’ll have a word
with the technician who mounted the tire.
Banks asked the motel keeper where the best place was
to dine. She recommended a nearby restaurant and we
went there. Our waitress was on her game tossing back
anything pitched to her. Bob didn’t eat all his steak,
and said he couldn’t finish it-she looked at him and
asked: “You want me to get you a nipple and have that
juiced up for you?” Slam, slam, slam. She got a big
tip.
Day 7: We again left early in the morning but after
breakfast and slightly after sunrise. We had a short
discussion about doing Lolo Pass or riding the freeway
so we could get home a bit faster. I opted for the
freeway as I was tired of dodging deer that were not
there for 3000 miles now-the rest agreed. The first
stages of I-90 through Montana and Idaho are fun and
fast. The motorists know the rules and abide by them.
However, once you cross into Washington you have taken
your life in your hands. The contrast is remarkable.
People cut you off, tailgate you, pace you and if you
slow down they slow down, and if you speed up they do
that too. They pass you then slow down to a crawl and
if you pass them they get pissed and ride your ass for
10 miles. Washington must surely be a refuge for those
who get their drivers license from Sears or Wal-Mart.
I’m home, safe and sound by 1700. My bike is filthy,
and my laundry needs to be done, and I’m a relaxed
tired that I hoped to be, and real happy to see my
wife.
The LT performed well-the final drive has yet to fail
and I’m real disappointed in that. It averaged 47 mpg
for the entire trip and ranged from 43 to 56 mpg
depending on weather and where we happened to be.
Mountain states seem to facilitate better gas mileage I
believe due to altitude and few, if any, oxygenates in
the fuel blend. The stock saddle sucks hard-it will be
replaced.